“Angler lies on the seventh floor of the South Place Hotel in a quieter corner of the City. With its light-flooded, cream-coloured dining room and shimmering mirrored ceiling, it is becoming an outlier in this banking territory that seems increasingly dominated by steak restaurants with bare dark wood tables; although you will likely see some square milers having after-work meetings. As the name suggests, Angler specialises in seafood. Chef Gary Foulkes has retained its Michelin star with ease through his gutsy cooking, which takes inspiration from Asia and Scandinavia, as well as closer to home.

While there is a good à la carte menu, the best way to see all these global influences at play is by indulging in the thoughtful tasting menus, which offer five or eight course for £65 and £98 respectively, but with less gels and fuss than is often involved in these things. Highlights include the delicate mackerel tartare with apple and shiso leaves, which tastes like autumn in Kyoto, while the roast turbot with imam bayıldı (stuffed spicy aubergine) is robust and warming. The few meat options are certainly not an afterthought – grouse agnolotti yielded to reveal a pleasingly rich whipped mousse interior, tempered by a scattering of wild blueberries.”

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